The first Phoenix Bouldering Contest was put together as a fun local competition. 35 competitors showed up to compete, hopefully collect the one prize - a climbing rope, and then return home. The pre-registration fee was $2.00. The "after party" consisted of listening to a stereo in Jim Waugh’s back yard, and everyone taking turns climbing Waugh’s "Bachar Ladder" in as many unique ways as possible. Nobody then remotely guessed that it would evolve into the largest outdoor bouldering competition/event in the world with almost 600 competitors, $40,000+ in merchandise prizes, and 3 days of festivities. Interestingly enough, the one thing that has not changed about the PBC is that it is still "just for the fun of it." For the first four years, the contest was known as the Central Arizona Bouldering Contest. In 1987, the name was changed to the Phoenix Bouldering Contest coinciding with the publication of Waugh’s new guidebook, Phoenix Rock. Waugh’s previous guidebook had been titled, A Climber’s Guide to Central Arizona. The first six contests were held at Camelback Mountain (#1, #3, #5), the Beardsley Rockpile (#2, #4), and South Mountain (#6), but as the contest/event grew, it became obvious that a new area would have to be discovered to meet the demands of a growing competition. In 1988, Waugh checked out the area surrounding Oak Flats Campground at the suggestion of Bob Murray, a tremendous climber/boulderer living in Tucson, AZ, at that time. What Waugh discovered was an area with almost unlimited potential for new un-roped and roped problems with all ranges of difficulty. Needless to say, in 1989, the PBC moved its current home to Oak Flats Campground. The '89 PBC opened with 340 competitors (almost 100 more than 1988) and had over 300 new bouldering problems that no competitor had seen. Currently, there are over 1200 developed boulder problems. |
The PBC has become an institution in the climbing world. It has seen generations of climbers attend over a 20-year span - Chris Sharma was only 1 year old when the first contest was held. Some climbers now bring their children who compete along side them. Will the PBC continue to happen? In 1999, the contest did not happen for the first time in 17 years. Will there be another PBC in 2002? Only sponsorship and competitors will ensure that.
Past Winners of the PBC
Please Note: The In-State listings may only list expert category winners. For some years the In-State/Out-of-State Masters Categories were combined, forcing the top local competitors to compete in the overall Masters category. *The PBC has alternated between In-State and Out-of-State divisions and Local and Non-Local divisions. ** The first two PBC's were "Winner Take All" and the male and female categories were combined. *** Davidson is reported not to have used chalk in chalking up his victories. **** Sharma at 14 years was the youngest ever overall winner. ***** Bobbi Bensman has won the Non-Local Women a record nine times! |